Rate National Parks

What is your next special occassion?  April 2009 was my wife’s and my 20th wedding anniversary.  We dreamed of Greece but decided that staying in country was going to be easier on our finances and was a better fit for the time we had available.  But where to go?   We settled on the Yosemite Valley.  Why?  We had both been there before.  Both with our children and as children ourselves.  The reason was that we had always visited at the height of the summer season.  This meant crowds but above all else, a dry Yosemite Falls.  Here was a chance to be there with the plumbing leaking in all its glory and enjoy each other’s company without the weight of parents or kids. 

And so Yosemite it was.  Things didn’t start out perfectly however as we were summarily dropped from our original flight (first class level miles points down the drain) and then found that the sporty little car we rented had no trunk.  Not a small trunk, no trunk.  We arrived in compromised fashion but savored the spring air and bright sun as we rolled into the valley.  We settled nicely into the Ahwahnee hotel and were lucky enough to have a high floor room with an expansive, half dome facing balcony.  Things started looking up. 

We woke the next morning to gray skies.  It proceeded to rain for the next three days.  Before you go and weep for us, here is a run down of how we extracted chips from such a lousy hand. We hiked to the top of Yosemite Falls and while the views were obscured from the mist, we got to enjoy a water world that is not always there.  Rainwater joined with the big spring runoff giving us surprise tributaries that crossed the hiking trail and extra cascades popping seemingly out of nowhere which gave us something different.  What we didn’t have was a dry place to sit or dry feet.  So, we were tired.  But we did it anyway and are glad we did.  Further, the Ahwahnee bar was waiting for us with an El Capatini. 

The bar scene was a thrill.  We sat for hours trying different concoctions while watching the visitors come and go. We took most of our meals in the main dining room.  And took baths in the nice tub the recently refurbished room offered. Not too shabby, really.  On our departure day the sun shined once again.  We took plenty of morning photos and then off we went. 

 In a way, the trip was a metaphor for our marraige.  Not quite what either of us expected but definitely what we needed.  And, we returned to our lives without a complaint (until I wrote the first paragraph. of course).  Yosemite is simply a great place to make and share memories no matter what the circumstances.   

Visitors to the wonderful Olympic Peninsula are lucky indeed as there are great lodge destinations that serve as base stations for explores into the rainforest and picturesque coastal hikes. Less visited than its northern sibling at Lake Crescent, Lake Quinault Lodge is the perfect respite from days spent on foot.  The front of the property is modest and unassuming but after passing through a classic National Park style great room replete with fireplace and easy chairs one steps out the back doors onto a wide patio looking out over an American dream style manicured lawn.  The green is dotted with Adirondack chairs for taking in views of the expansive lake. 

Row boats and canoes bob in wait of trips out for a degree of separation and a different perspective. 
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If the term “Living on the Edge” is meant to imply anxiety and tension it certainly does not apply here.  Spending a couple of days in a rim cabin is more likely to leave you relaxed and inspired.  (more…)

Almost everything about Yosemite is old.  Old magnificent trees, old awe inspiring rock formations, and old, tall waterfalls. Unfortunately, not everything old is always good.  Yosemite Lodge is, well… old.  The design of the property puts the parking on one side and the strip cabins on the other resulting in a long distance luggage haul for most visitors.  And if you arrive after dark as we did you may have difficulty finding a spot at all.  (more…)

There are just a few choices of places to stay in Death Valley.  The Furnace Creek Inn is easily the finest.  In fact, the hotel is on the site of an actual desert oasis.  The grounds are well taken care of featuring greenery all around which deserves credit for lowering the air temperature slightly via evaporation.  The hotel itself is classicly styled and the rooms well appointed but perhaps aging a bit.  At the height of the summer when fools like I visit the air conditioning in the room and common spaces can scarcely maintain eighty degrees.  Of course, eighty feels like forty when coming in from 120!  There is a nice pool and terrific restaurant and so has everything one really needs.  I admit that I was anxious to leave Death Valley but that was due neither to the Inn nor the park sights.  It was simply the unrelenting August heat that had moved me towards a forced surrender.  So take good advice from a fool and enjoy Furnace Creek Inn during any season other than the height of summer.

The Old Faithful Inn is by far the most important place to stay in Yellowstone if this is your only visit.  The place exemplifies rustic charm in such magnitude that it almost seems unreal.  It is however, quite authentic.  This log cabin on growth hormone provides the comfort that you chose the right place to stay.  I have stayed here twice. Once in 1976 and now again in August 2006.  The main building is currently undergoing some renovation/reconstruction.  The look is not changing but every 100 year old structure needs regular maintenance. 

This visit we were lucky enough to get one of the historic dormer rooms at the front of the lodge.  This meant a roomy space but at the expense of an in-room toilet.  While there are shared facilities right down the hall having a private bathroom while on vacation with family should not be under-rated.  After 4 nights enough was enough.  Leaving the room in my robe for an early morning visit was odd as there are already tourists milling around outside the room taking pictures.  The more plentiful rooms in the hotel wings are smaller but have that certain something known as a commode.

The hotel is immediately adjacent to the Old Faithful geyser which you will want to see erupt several times.  Staying here makes that easy.  The staff here is very helpful and friendly which was a pleasant surprise.  They even delivered extra robes for the kids for those midnight trips down the hall.

On the downside, there are visitors to the Inn milling around the place at all hours. After all, the place is a national historic site in its own right.  One other item is the Harleys.  Now please, please don’t get me wrong.  I love Harleys. Nothing like ‘em.  But, these are very loud machines.   And while popular to get that trademark rumble going, it just doesn’t seem to fit into the pristine surroundings of Yellowstone.    Especially when they roll up in front of the hotel at 6:00 AM.  Or when you are quietly ogling a roadside bison.  And, while we were visiting there were literally hundreds of motorcycling visitors in the park.  Its a shame there isn’t a noise limit of some sort.

Bottom line is that this is where you need to stay.